Keeping a Montreal classic alive at Chez Delmo

In the heart of Old Montreal, Chez Delmo has been serving seafood and classic dishes for decades. Known for its warm hospitality and timeless atmosphere, it’s a place where regulars feel at home and visitors quickly become part of the family.  We caught up with co-owner Benoit Dessureault, who has been at the helm since 2011, to talk about Chez Delmo’s history, challenges, and what keeps guests coming back.

Tell us about yourself and share how you came to own Chez Delmo.

I’ve been a co-owner of Chez Delmo since 2011. I was previously in print media advertising, but after we sold the company to Quebecor, I stopped working for a couple of years. I live in Old Montreal and raised my three kids here. Chez Delmo was always a neighbourhood spot for us, where we often came. When the opportunity to buy it came up, I jumped at the chance. Since 2011, it’s been quite the adventure.

Was there a defining moment when you knew Chez Delmo was something special?

Chez Delmo has always been special. I was in law school, and after moot court (student simulated court proceedings) in my second year, I was scouted by a firm. The representative of that firm took me to Chez Delmo when I was 20 years old. That was my first experience here and the first time I had Dover sole, which was the most expensive thing on the menu. I was very impressed by the vibe. Everybody who was anybody in Quebec ate here—politicians, lawyers, judges, bankers, insurance people. It was almost like a university campus where 20,000 students reinvent the world every day. It was uplifting and vibrant, and I’ve liked the place ever since.

How would you describe the atmosphere you’ve cultivated at Chez Delmo? What do you hope guests feel when they walk through the door?

I think the keyword is hospitality. Making people feel comfortable. When regulars come in, they usually have their preferences when it comes to seating. Some even have their names engraved on the back of the barstools. They have their favourite table or favourite spot. When tourists come in, they may have just arrived from the airport or checked into their hotel, and now they can finally relax. We want them to feel that way immediately.

If someone walks in without a reservation, we’ll say, “That’s fine, we’ll make one right now,” and seat them right away. The welcome is the most important thing. And it’s also about reading the customer. Do they want to try something local? Something new? Are they very hungry, or just here for something light? Our wait staff is trained not just to take orders but to organize the experience.

Chez Delmo has a rich history. How do you balance tradition with innovation in the kitchen?

Chez Delmo has a long tradition and typically serves classic dishes. Some have been on the menu for four or five decades. Those are things I wouldn’t change. But at the same time, it’s important to strike a balance between respecting those classics and introducing new ones.  Keeping the menu fresh not only excites our guests but also keeps the kitchen staff inspired to experiment and showcase new techniques.

What has been your biggest challenge as a business owner, and how did you overcome it?

Staffing is the biggest challenge. This is a live platform—it’s like a commedia dell’arte performance. If a customer tells you something’s not right, you can’t lock yourself in your office and respond two hours later by email. You have to keep your composure, find a solution immediately, and respond politely and calmly while operations continue around you.

That requires a special type of personality. Many of the staff are young and haven’t necessarily developed those skills yet, so it’s a learning process. Just when you think you’ve seen it all, something different happens. I find that challenging, but I like it. Sometimes the demands are unreasonable, sometimes they’re justified, and our staff briefings are almost always about how to handle those situations.

What’s your most Instagrammed dish?

Probably the seafood tower. It’s a three-tier tower, very festive and spectacular. It hardly fits on the table, and it’s often met with applause. It gets photographed quite a bit.

When you’re not in chef mode, what’s your personal favourite thing to eat here?

I’m not a chef—I’m a manager. Sometimes I come up with ideas for dishes, and then the chef makes them viable. Cooking at home for six people is one thing, but cooking for 50 people every day is another.

My favourite dish changes, but the Lobster Club Sandwich is quite spectacular. It’s a three-decker BLT made with a whole 1.5 Lb lobster, served with fries. The lobster bisque is also very popular. And the Dover sole remains the house signature.

Why Moneris? How has your experience been so far?

We use Moneris because I’m a BMO customer. Recently, Quebec laws changed regarding tipping procedures, and we had to upgrade our POS machines accordingly. I’m not very good with those kinds of procedures—I’m pretty much roadkill on the info highway.

I called Moneris, and within 10 minutes, they gave me step-by-step instructions. What felt like a nightmare situation for me turned out to be quite easy. That kind of support is what I appreciate.

You mentioned that you bank with BMO. How has your experience been with them?

My experience with BMO was unique. After law school, I went into business, and there were ups and downs. I was with another bank at the time, and when one of my business ventures didn’t go well, I had trouble paying off a credit card. The bank called me in and said I had to bring in the card and destroy it on the spot. They slowly cut it up in front of me. It was humiliating, and I had no options left.

I went to BMO’s head office on Saint-Jacques and told them my story. They asked me what I needed. I said a fresh bank account and a bit of money to start. Honestly, I wasn’t a very attractive client at the time, but they supported me. They gave me a debit card, a credit card, and a modest line of credit.

I was surprised, because people often say banks will lend you an umbrella when it’s sunny. But in BMO’s case, they actually helped me when things weren’t going well. Later, when I sold the business, it felt natural to stay with them. By then, I had private banking. It wasn’t a small credit limit anymore. I’ve stayed with them ever since, and I get excellent service from their staff. I’m very happy with it

Commitment to hospitality

Chez Delmo continues to serve regulars and new visitors with the same focus on hospitality and tradition.  For Benoit, the goal is simple: preserve the classics, empower the staff, and make every guest feel at home. The restaurant’s steady presence in Old Montreal shows how consistency and care can sustain a business for decades.

So, the next time you’re in Montreal, stop by Chez Delmo for a taste of history, hospitality, and a seafood experience you won’t forget.